With March coming in, you can expect spring to follow if it hasn’t already in the south. There is quite a lot going on in the garden in March and it’s not too soon to start some pretty important tasks… Read on!

Freezes In Spring

As my scottish granmother would have said “las...it’s no’ o’er till it’s o’er…..Spring can be early and so are our spirits. The weather is warm and we are just itching to get out and get stuff planted. Before you go out and plant bunches of tender plants, consider Mother Nature’s ugly sting. It is not uncommon in the south for us to have two springs. One early, then a freeze then another spring. If it looks like you’re going to have another cold blast, be prepared to protect tender perennials and shrubs that are just showing new growth if a spring freeze comes our way.

Camellias

Camellia blooms still last through March and even though some varieties have finished blooming or are on their way out. You can safely plant Camellias in the south from September thru May.

Pruning Camellias is best done after they bloom but since all Camellias bloom at different times, you can safely do it before the plant starts putting on new growth – ths’s usually in February or early March. Camellias do not have to be pruned if they are planted in the right spot. If you do have the need to prune your Camellias, you can do that in March or early April.

Fertilizing In March

Don’t be too quick to add fertilizer in early March. It’s best to wait and do it after St. Patricks Day or even into early April. If you’re using organics such as Espoma’s ‘tone’ products, go ahead, it’s fine to use that any time in March.

Planting In March

March is an excellent time to plant most shrubs and trees. Perennials may need to wait until the end of March or the first of April. We have lots of great plants including Fruit Trees, Shrubs, Shade Trees, Camellias, and Tea Plants available for you this spring at Blackcreek Nursery.

Mulch Mulch Mulch

March is an excellent time to replenish mulch in your beds. Applying a 2-3″ layer of mulch around shrubs, trees, annuals, and perennials can help with weeds, moisture loss, and high temperatures. Organic mulch like leaves, bark, and straw is recommended. Did you know you can mulch your containers? Yes, you can! Adding bark chips to your container plants is an excellent way of keeping them cool, moist, and weed-free!

Plant Availability Herbs & Perennials at Blackcreek

Many people expect to see benches full of “ready-to-go” plants on March 1. But at Blackcreek, nature is our guide.

We don’t force plants to grow before they’re ready. We don’t push them against their natural rhythm. They grow when the light, the soil, and the season tell them it’s time. Honestly, that’s a lesson we could all take to heart.

We are small growers, and what we don’t grow ourselves comes from other small growers just like us. An early spring on the calendar doesn’t mean the plants will hurry for us — or for them. Growth still follows nature’s timing.

We don’t use climate-controlled greenhouses. The sun is our heater. The changing length of day is our timer. Our plants grow naturally, not artificially.

That means you won’t always see full benches at the first hint of spring the way you might at big box stores or large commercial operations. But what you will find are plants grown in season, in rhythm, and the way they were meant to grow.

And that difference matters.

Pruning Caution

In early March here in coastal Georgia, you do have to be careful about what you prune. Bigleaf and old-fashioned hydrangeas, such as Hydrangea macrophylla, bloom on old wood — meaning the flower buds were formed last year — so if you prune them now, you’ll be cutting off this summer’s blooms. Blueberries, like Vaccinium corymbosum, are often already budding or blooming by this time, and heavy pruning can reduce your fruit set.

The same caution applies to many spring-flowering shrubs including azaleas (Rhododendron).  These plants set their buds the previous season, so pruning now removes the very flowers people are waiting for. As a general rule, if a plant blooms in early spring, wait and prune it after it finishes flowering. If it blooms in summer on new growth, early spring pruning is usually safe.

 

Chemicals in the Garden

March is the time to consider garden insects and disease issues that you will have now and for the next few months. The need to use chemicals in our gardens is something that we just can’t get away from. However, there are many alternatives to harsh chemicals that can hurt pollinators. If you must use chemicals, always read the label and use the product as specified.

Know What Your Issue Is

Before you grab the chemical bottle, you need to know what your issue is. The most important part of any chemical application is to know exactly what you’re treating for. Don’t guess and apply a chemical needlessly. We are always available by text, email or just dropping by and we are more than happy to help you figure out what your garden problems are.  If you are unsure,  contact BLACKCREEK NURSERY and we will help guide you as to the proper treatment for what ails your plants.

Safe Insecticides

Note For Bees and Pollinators: Just because it’s ‘organic’ doesn’t mean it’s always safe to use. Some organics can harm beneficial insects when it’s not used properly or at times when the pollinators are active. Always read the label for any product you are using.

Neem Oil works very well for controlling most insects including Mites, scales, Aphids, and many other insects. Did you know that Neem Oil is also a great fungicide and can help protect plants from many types of fungi?

Organic Castile Soap makes an excellent spray and can work wonders on some soft-bodied pests. Mix 1-2 tablespoons in a quart of water and put in a spray bottle or tank.

Espoma Earth Tone Insectide Soap is organic and is formulated for many insects. It is available online or at local garden stores.

Weed Control

Our go-to for organic weed control is a product called Avenger. It’s made with orange oil and has excellent weed-killing abilities without hurting our pollinators. There are many organic weed products available that are cost-effective if you’re using them in a small area. Keeping a 2-3″ layer of mulch will help with weed control.

Be Careful with Home-Made Vinegar and Salt Solutions:

Vinegar works well to control some undesirable plants and weeds, but household vinegar is 5% while some horticultural vinegar is about 20-30% and is recommended for better weed control. On the flip side, vinegar is non-selective and will damage or kill anything it touches. Vinegar may change the soil pH making it unsuitable for some plants.

The use of salt is not recommended in any weed control without careful thought of what it can do. Salt, when entering the soil, can take care of weeds but it is non-selective and will stay in the soil and possibly leach into desirable areas causing salt damage to desirable plants.

Keep in mind that some non-organic and also some organic weed killers can harm beneficial insects & pollinators. Know the chemical before you use it.

Learn more with The Blackcreek Southern Garden Guide!